And between the tandoori oven, a Japanese robata grill, the Spanish Mibrasa charcoal oven and a Texas slow-cooker, the ways of cooking it are plenty.
Barbecoa is the latest from celebrity chef Jamie Oliver, the second of his Barbecoa steakhouse restaurants, but the first of which to offer breakfast and afternoon tea. But the real draw here really is the potential for meaty feasts. Think: dry-aged pork chop with maple and bourbon-roasted pear (the lucky pear!) or a rack of ribs, which at Wednesday's opening party were slathered in sauce applied by a bushel of rosemary and artfully sprinkled with sliced chilli. Here, meat sweats are mitigated with craft cocktails, a glass from one of the 2,500 wines from the cellar or champagne sourced from the nearby Berry Bros & Rudd.
The bi-level space takes its inspiration from its historic surroundings. The bars are wood-panelled, the lighting elegant and ornate, with a sweeping staircase cut from marble.
Needless to say, the event was a well-attended success. Bold-face names like Tanya Burr and her husband (and friend of St James's) Jim Chapman were there, as was presenter Phillip Schofield and of course Mr. Oliver himself.
Barbecoa opens to the public 13 February. Come hungry.