In conversation with Kathryn Sargent

In the heart of St James’s, craftsmanship and character are woven into every stitch — and few embody that spirit quite like Kathryn Sargent. As the first woman to open her own tailoring house on London’s iconic Savile Row, Sargent has redefined what it means to be a modern tailor, blending tradition with innovation and timeless style with a contemporary eye.

In this exclusive Q&A, we sit down with Kathryn to discuss her journey, the enduring art of bespoke tailoring, and how St James’s continues to inspire her work

You are and were the world’s first female Master Tailor with your own atelier, what did that milestone mean for you personally and professionally?

That milestone meant everything to me. To become the first female Master Tailor was, and remains, a source of great pride, both personally and professionally. When I opened my atelier, my vision was clear, I wanted to make superb tailoring; stylish, practical, and truly reflective of the individual, whether male or female.

Opening my own atelier has also allowed me to address a gap that I felt strongly about, which is women seeking clothing that fits their physical shape, enhances how they feel and suits their lifestyle. Currently, around 40% of my clients are women, it is deeply rewarding to serve them and help them solve their wardrobe dilemmas.

My hope is that when people wear Kathryn Sargent, they feel their best selves, confident and proud. That sense of ‘authenticity’ is at the heart of everything I do and continues to inspire me within my work.

Tailoring is traditionally a male-dominated world, what challenges did you face breaking through, and what changes have you noticed since?

At times, I faced barriers early on, being judged more for my appearance than for my work. My strategy was to work hard and let the craft speak for itself. What once felt like a disadvantage has become a strength. I bring a fresh perspective to tailoring, which has allowed me to help open doors for other women to enter this great profession.

Every field has its challenges, but in tailoring, the true measure of a tailor’s ability isn’t based on whether they are male or female; it lies in their skill set, training, and qualifications. It is also essential to understand the craft of bespoke tailoring and the differences between bespoke, made-to-measure, and ready-to-wear garments. The level of skill required to become a Bespoke Master Tailor takes years and years and immense dedication. I’m proud to be the first, and still the only woman to achieve that position.

Women have always played a vital role in the tailoring industry, often working behind the scenes. In recent years, more women are pursuing careers in tailoring itself, and just as importantly, more women are seeking bespoke garments that are thoughtfully designed and crafted specifically for them. This change is transforming the industry in exciting and meaningful ways while honouring the century-old techniques that continue to shape the craft.

Is there a piece or commission in your career that feels especially defining or memorable?

Every garment I make is uniquely different and therefore feels incredibly special. I would love to tell you about some of the renowned clients I work with, but a significant part of our service is the discretion we offer.

A particularly memorable commission I can share with you is my work with Cunard and in particular, the first female captain, Captain Inger Thorhauge. I designed and created bespoke blues, whites, and mess uniforms for the launch of the Queen Anne. It was a privilege to be part of such a momentous occasion.

I had long held a fascination and interest in the symbolism and structure of uniforms and it was a privilege to get to know Captain Thorhauge and to understand and address the challenges she has faced with her uniform during her career and interestingly, the aligned principles in our careers. A shared sense of tradition, precision, craft and putting the individual at the heart of what we both do – and an appreciation for dressing appropriately with a sense of occasion, grace, and comfort.

How would you describe your philosophy of tailoring, and what makes a Kathryn Sargent suit unique?

At Kathryn Sargent, a key part of our approach is that we break with tradition and, rather than focusing on a set house style, we learn the specific requirements of each client, so every Kathryn Sargent garment is a bespoke, one-of-a-kind piece. A distinctive aspect of my philosophy regarding tailoring pertains to the relationships I cultivate with my clients.

Before I ever take measurements or introduce cloth I sit down and learn about my clients and their lifestyles. I understand what it is they want, why they want a bespoke piece, and how they plan to wear their clothes. The more I get to know them, the better I can make suggestions on style and cut and find what works best for their personality and lifestyle.

From there, I take measurements and look at colours and weight of cloth. This is where understanding lifestyle is important, so we discuss for example, the climate they intend to wear this in, whether they need to travel with it, etc. As well as ensuring they like the way a fabric feels, as this directly translates to how it will fold and drape on the body.

A bespoke garment can take nearly 60 hours of hand work to craft, and by the time my clients leave with their new piece, we typically have three separate fittings to ensure the garment is exemplary. I want my clients to look impeccable and to feel their absolute most confident selves wearing Kathryn Sargent garments.

Bespoke tailoring is both an art and a science. What part of the process do you find the most satisfying?

The artistry comes from understanding the body and movement and I must be able to visualise what a garment looks like long before it exists. The technical skills marry into this as I draw upon my years of training and precision to bring that vision to life for my client. There is definitely both an artistry and a science that goes into this transformation, as the level of skill required to become a Bespoke Master Tailor takes years to perfect. Equally challenging and very rewarding.

I get great satisfaction from many aspects; from seeing my clients around the world, to how our two ateliers are growing. I love talking about tailoring... about commissions, about amendments, about cloth, helping solve our clients wardrobe dilemmas, from a suit to celebrate a promotion or an award ceremony to complementary suits for a wedding couple. Every day is different, and that brings me great joy.

What drew you to open your atelier in St James’s, and what does the neighbourhood mean to you?

The area boasts a rich history of extraordinary tailors and craftsmen, being part of that tradition is both inspiring and humbling. St James’s is more than just a neighbourhood; it's the thriving heart of classic British luxury, the historic menswear district. It means a great deal to contribute to that legacy and continue creating garments that are rooted in the time-honoured values.

St James’s has a rich history of craftsmanship - from shirtmakers to perfumers. How do you feel your work fits into that legacy?

St James’s has long been home to exquisite craftsmen who define and preserve the true meaning of British excellence. My work carries forward this legacy by honouring traditional, century-old tailoring techniques while infusing a fresh, contemporary vision. Providing a truly bespoke luxury service for each one of my clients is a commitment I uphold and reflects the prestigious craftsmanship that defines St James’s.

What’s your favourite hidden gem or ritual in the neighbourhood — something you’d recommend to someone visiting St James’s for the first time?

St James’s is such a wonderful and interesting area, enriched with remarkable hidden gems. The beautiful architecture and the history-steeped streets full of art, culture, and, of course, some extraordinary dining, are all part of the unique charm.

One of my favourite spots to visit is Lock & Co, which is one of the oldest hat shops in the world and, overall, a renowned London destination. For a range of art and culture, the estimable Christie’s and the independent galleries in and around the surrounding streets showcase some of the best that St. James’s has to offer.

When it comes to dining, a drink at The Stafford and then a must try is the pâté en croûte at Maison François, it’s fantastic! If I want a moment of calm, a stroll through St James's Square is perfect for enjoying the impressive sculptures.

What would you say to women looking to start in the world of tailoring?

To any woman looking to start a career in tailoring, embrace your femininity, be bold, say yes to opportunities, read, learn, practice, practice, practice, and above all, believe in yourself. Be curious about how every detail is made.

Being unapologetically myself, curious and fascinated by tailoring, has been the most empowering aspect of my journey to where I am today as a Master Tailor. I want more women to feel like they can do the same, as opposed to adapting to other misconceptions about what a tailor should be.

These values led me to help establish Women in Tailoring, an organisation that helps bring like-minded women together to share our creativity and unique experiences. I’m honoured to be part of this network, where I can support women and provide the same guidance I sought during my early career.

Finally, if you could dress anyone from history (or the present!) who would it be, and why?

Growing up, I always admired the way a suit could transform someone, giving them presence, confidence, and an almost effortless elegance. When I was studying fashion, a significant source of inspiration for me was James Bond.

I grew up watching all the Bond films, and they had a considerable influence on me. It is also the most referenced inspiration when talking to (male) clients. Dressing Bond would be the ultimate expression of what tailoring can achieve, which is creating clothing that makes the client feel and look exceptional.