In conversation with Chef Ramael Scully

Tucked into the vibrant heart of St James’s Market, one chef is quietly redefining what it means to blend heritage, innovation, and flavour. With roots in Malaysia and training that spans continents, this chef’s journey to launching a standout solo restaurant in London, Scully, is a story of creative evolution, bold fusion, and deep community connection.

We sat down for an honest Q&A to explore his path, his inspirations, and what’s next on the horizon.

Can you tell us a bit about your journey to becoming a chef?

I was born in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and grew up surrounded by a rich blend of Malaysian, Chinese, Indian, and Irish-Balinese heritage before moving to Sydney. My love for food started early—cooking for family and working as a kitchen porter in an Italian restaurant. By 21, I had completed Australia’s four-year apprenticeship and gained experience in a wide range of kitchens: showboats, casino restaurants, Fox Studios, beachside venues, and French-Asian fusion spots.

What first drew you to the culinary world, and how has your style evolved?

Food has always been at the centre of my life, my mother was my biggest influence. I trained classically in French and Italian cuisine, but after moving to London and working with Yotam Ottolenghi, I became passionate about combining Middle Eastern, Asian, and European flavours. Over the years, I’ve leaned into fermentation, spices, and cross-cultural techniques, which have become a core part of my style.

How did you find your way to St James’s, and what made it the right fit?

After seven incredible years at Ottolenghi’s NOPI (and a short time abroad due to visa restrictions) I returned to London to launch my first solo restaurant in St James’s Market in 2018. It felt like the right place to channel everything I’d learned from my travels and heritage into a creative, community-focused dining experience.

What inspires you most in the kitchen—ingredients, places, people, or something else?

Inspiration comes from everywhere: my multicultural upbringing, my mum and aunties, cookbooks, fellow chefs, and London’s vibrant energy. Fermentation, pickling, and zero-waste pantry experiments are ongoing sources of creativity.

How would you describe your restaurant’s ethos, and what makes it stand out in St James’s?

It’s all about bold, multicultural, fusion-forward flavours served in a warm, open, and communal setting. The open kitchen and colourful pantry jars are part of the atmosphere. It’s not fine dining in the traditional sense, but it’s full of life and flavour.

Is there a dish on your menu that’s particularly meaningful to you?

Absolutely—the signature arepa. It’s a crispy, pillowy Venezuelan-style corn pocket filled with smoked aubergine sambal and bergamot labneh. It represents my Malaysian roots, my Middle Eastern influences, and the kind of happy accidents that happen in a creative kitchen.

How do local ingredients or British culinary traditions influence your menu?

We lean into seasonal British produce, which pairs beautifully with global techniques. For example, we make tomato shrubs from imperfect tomatoes and serve a vegetable XO sauce with our forbidden rice.

What’s one dish every guest should try when visiting your restaurant?

The arepa with eggplant sambal and bergamot labneh is a must-try! It’s bold, balanced, and tells a story.

What does being part of the St James’s community mean to you?

It feels a bit like New York City - a tight square with amazing restaurants packed into one creative hub. With neighbours like Fallow and Sael, it feels like a concrete jungle of innovation and energy. There’s a real sense of support among local businesses.

How would you describe the spirit of St James’s in three words?

Atmospheric, entertaining, centrepoint.

Are there any local businesses or chefs you admire or collaborate with?

Definitely. I admire places like Fallow and Sael. We’re all part of the same community, and it’s great to support and uplift each other.

Do you have any favourite hidden gems in St James’s?

Not exactly hidden, but I walk past the Smeg store every day and dream about owning one of those pieces, it’s become a bit of a team obsession. There's also a quiet alleyway near the restaurant with benches, and oddly, a photo of me on the wall. It’s a peaceful spot, and when the weather’s good, we often head to Green Park for a break.

How do you see St James’s evolving, and what role does food play in that journey?

St James’s has already changed a lot over the last eight years. I think it will keep growing in diversity, creativity, and energy, with food playing a central role in drawing people in and building community.

Morning coffee, where do you go?

I usually wait until I get to the restaurant. Like most chefs, I tend to skip the café run and keep it part of my daily rhythm at work.

Best place for a quiet moment in St James’s?

That alleyway near the restaurant is my go-to. Seeing my own face on the wall is a bit surreal, but it’s peaceful. Green Park is another great escape when the sun’s out.

Favourite seasonal ingredient right now?

Kinako, a roasted soybean flour. It’s packed with flavour and super versatile. I’m currently developing a new dressing using it for a fresh persimmon dish.

What’s something people might be surprised to learn about you?

I seriously considered becoming a marine biologist before diving fully into cooking.

Your guilty pleasure meal when off-duty?

Rendang or massaman curry—pure Malaysian comfort food!

What excites you most about the future of your restaurant and your place in St James’s?

The evolution of our pantry, especially the long-term ferments like cheese-rind garum, is incredibly exciting. Plus, watching my team’s creativity grow is a constant source of pride.

Any upcoming dishes, events, or collaborations we should know about?

Eventually, I’d love to publish a cookbook. In the meantime, we’re planning plant-based tasting menus, seasonal specials, and possibly some behind-the-scenes fermentation workshops or pop-ups.

St James’s is known for its heritage, but what makes it truly exciting is the way it embraces reinvention, through people, food, and collaboration. This chef’s journey is a shining example of that spirit: rooted in culture, driven by curiosity, and open to evolution. Whether you're a local or a visitor, Scully offers more than a meal—it’s a story told through flavour, passion, and community.