How to Choose Clothes and Accessories that are Built to Last

The secret to a capsule wardrobe with style and longevity lies in choosing clothes that last. Here’s what to look out for and where to find it in Central London.

1. Look for items made with natural fibres

Our first port of call in the pursuit of a long-lasting wardrobe is material. The fabrics that make up a piece largely dictate its shelf-life, with the general rule being that natural materials stand the test of time far better than synthetic alternatives.

Though man-made textiles like polyester and acrylic are cheap to produce and can be highly durable, they also come with limitations like trapping heat and moisture, which can quickly lead to stubborn odours and stains that can’t be shifted. As an alternative, natural fibres like cotton offer breathability and odour resistance while also skipping the harsh chemicals that are used in the production of synthetic fabrics. 

Hats are a wonderful example of how natural materials can work in your favour, whether it’s the Panama straw used by Lock & Co that’s designed to retain its shape over decades, or the handmade silk flowers that Rachel Trevor-Morgan uses to create hyper-realistic couture millinery.

2. Choose clothing that’s constructed with care

The way a piece of clothing is constructed is the telltale sign of how durable it’s likely to be, so your next task is to find plenty of evidence of good craftsmanship. Look out for the luxury ‘extras’ that you wouldn’t find on fast fashion clothing such as linings, finished edges, added reinforcements and fabric that has been pattern-matched at the seams.

Once you’re satisfied with how your garment has been made, it’s time to check durability. A handy way to test this is to hold the item at a strain point - e.g. the seam of a shirt - and very gently pull and stretch to see how the material responds. Ideally, it should allow for some give without getting misshapen or loose.

Tailoring houses like Monte Lys go so far as to create bespoke garments that are designed specifically with function in mind, developing a cut that accounts for everyday movements that commonly cause clothing to degrade. If you’re searching for a durable suit, bespoke garments like these will take much longer to wear out and give you more wear for your money.

3. Question how your piece can be adapted in future

The crowning jewel on any timeless fashion piece is the ability to adapt over time. When you’ve chosen well in terms of material and construction, adaptability is something that tends to follow closely behind.

It’s inevitable that wear and tear will show their telltale signs on your favourite garments, but if the piece can be repaired or refashioned, you’re truly playing the long game (and winning). When your item gets tired, it’s time to treat it to the upgrade it deserves. This could involve:

• Replacing a faulty area - e.g. switching a broken button for its spare

• Reviving materials - e.g. moisturising leather or buffing woolen fibres

• Making spot repairs - e.g. reinforcing heavily worn areas with extra fabric

• Upcycling it into a new piece - e.g. turning trousers into shorts

The perfect example of modern day making-do-and-mending is resoling footwear that would otherwise be destined for the bin. Many craft footwear brands like Myrqvist use the Goodyear welted construction technique to allow for exactly this, meaning the soles of your shoes can be replaced almost indefinitely.

4. Follow a mental checklist before you buy

One of the most powerful ways to quantify whether a piece is worth buying or not is to set your non-negotiables and ask yourself if the item you’ve fallen in love with matches up. If the answers to any are ‘no’, it’s time to put it back and find your fashion fix elsewhere.

Here is a quick checklist to follow next time you’re looking for clothing that lasts: 

1. Will this piece still spark joy in 5 years’ time?

2. Can it be worn with at least 3 items I already own?

3. Is it predominantly made from natural fibres?

4. Does it stand up to a light pull/stretch test?

5. Can it be repaired or adapted in future?

And for your final question… are you ready to put your new knowledge into practice and acquire your next wardrobe staple? Of course you are.

Brimming with experts in heritage craft and specialists in fashion and accessories, St James’s is your destination for durable, long-wearing wardrobe items to see you through every season.

See where the sartorial set spend Fashion Month in the neighbourhood or read menswear icon Efe Efeturi’s guide to all things style, shopping and St James’s.